This is my third version of the much-loved Papercut Sapporo pattern.
Version 1 – mohair with Liberty tana lawn lining and covered snaps
Version 2 – shortened, unlined and in a low-stretch double-faced wool
My mohair Sapporo has had (and continues to get) loads of wear but I wanted version three to close properly. The snaps on version one are ok but a few extra centimetres added to the width of the front pieces would make a big difference because the bottom one has a tendency to pop open too easily. I kept the lengthened and fully lined sleeves `that I used in the mohair version. Then for this version I made a few pattern changes.
Here’s what I used…
Outer – 2m houndstooth Harris Tweed (from Mandors in Glasgow)
Lining – Nani Iro Beau Yin Yang cotton sateen (from Ray Stitch)
Bias binding for piping and snaps from MacCulloch and Wallis
Here are the pattern mods… (images of the pieces in layout pics in next section)
Front pieces – remove facing, redraw as a single piece and add 4 cm (to accommodate snaps) plus SA (to attach to facing) to the centre front edge. This meant two things:
- Keeping the lines of the houndstooth weave intact rather than split in the middle on a curved seam; and
- For me, the seam between the upper and lower front pieces couldn’t work with the fastenings because the front pieces need to overlap which they aren’t designed to do (only because the coat isn’t designed to fasten).
Pockets – draw big, deep patch pockets with a curved top that mimics the curve of the seam I removed from the front pieces
Facings – draft separate facings by using the removed facing and adding 4cm plus SA (as in front pieces).
Lining – right lining piece turned into two pieces to add pocket, left lining piece marked up for a zipped welt pocket
Here’s the how…most of this is added internal structure
Single layered layout with pockets and upper back pieces cut on cross-grain to add interest.
Weft insertion fusible interfacing used on all pieces to stabilise and add some structure.
Extra sew-in interfacing used behind the snaps.
Hair canvas back stay added right across all the back pieces (partial one used in mohair version). I cut it in one piece, sewed into shoulder seams and stitched in the ditch to anchor at either side of the main back piece.
Seam tape added along the curved seams where the back and upper back pieces are joined.
Lined the patch pockets and stabilised the top curved edge. The lining was cut slightly smaller so there was no peeking. Here’s how they looked before and after pressing.
I used a pretty traditional construction order – outer first then construct lining and attach facings to the lining, sew facing to coat (with added piping in between) and top stitch centre front openings and neck starting at one hem and finishing at the other. I bagged the lining and hand stitched the whole hem.
I used lots of washi tape to keep the snaps in place as I sewed them.
Always need to add one of these:
The extra 4 cm means the coat stays fastened perfectly.
The separate facings sit really nicely.
The bigger back stay adds a quite a bit to the structure of the coat which I really like.
Four good-sized pockets is perfect in a winter coat – I can get so much stuff in there!
If there’s a number four I’m going to add two or three inches to the length of the main lining pieces.
This one will last a looong time.