Papercut Sapporo in mohair

Papercut Sapporo in mohair

The Sapporo Coat is only my third Papercut Patterns make; the other two being the Rigel Bomber and Undercover Hood.

I have a Saporro mark 2, made in a stable knit, unlined and shortened.

I used…

The outer fabric is British woven mohair by Samuel Tweed (bought from Merchant and Mills 2 or 3 years ago).

The lining is Liberty tana lawn Queue for the Zoo in blue, again it’s been in the stash for 2-3 years.

I backed all the outer pieces with white fusible weft insertion interfacing (bought from Stone Fabrics) and used hair canvas to add a backstay.

Having a coat with no closures when you live in Scotland doesn’t make much sense. The least obtrusive  closures I could find that would work were large (27mm), sew-in snap fasteners from MacCulloch and Wallace.

A press cloth, tailor’s clapper, ham and sleeve roll were really helpful in getting a well-pressed finish on the wool.

I used silk thread (rayon would work too) to mark all notches- I couldn’t find a marking tool that was visible on the fabric and easily removed.

I also added seam tape to the shoulder seams for extra stability.

Papercut Sapporo in mohair

Pattern changes, additions and construction…

I’m a UK size 10 and 5’7″ so went with the xxs/xs size. Having looked at others’ versions online I made an unlined toile in fleece (to be given away to a good home) to check the proportions and fit. The cocoon shape includes a lot of ease and it can look overwhelming.

The outer fabric and interfacing were cut at the same time (same way as my Claire Coat but no interlining this time) before fusing everything. The interfacing gave some nice extra body and support to the fabric. I needed 2m of fabric rather then the 3 stated in the pattern.

Papercut Sapporo in mohair

I added 1″ to the pocket depth. I might add another inch if I make it again. The coat front and new pocket bag (original beside it) ended up looking like this:

Papercut Sapporo in mohair

The pockets bags are cut out of lining rather than outer fabric to reduce bulk (and hairiness from the mohair) and I prefer the way it looks. I left 1 & 1/4″ plus 3/8″ seam allowance for the pocket facing on each outer pattern piece.

The bracelet length sleeves on this look lovely but in a winter coat they don’t work for me so I reduced the width of the sleeve by 3″ at the cuff edge and graded it to the armhole in a straight line. Then I added 1 1/2″ to the sleeve length  then the same for the sleeve facing + 3/8″ seam allowance  and 1/4″ to allow for the turn of the cloth. This also allowed me to line the sleeve rather than have the double cuff included in the pattern. The result is nice narrow cuffs- enough space for gloves and no draughts! The new sleeve piece looks like this:

Papercut Sapporo in mohair

Papercut Sapporo in mohair

I added a backstay in hair canvas to the back piece (see Claire Coat post for more on how). This one is 10″ long measured from the centre back neck.

I also stitched bar tacks over the seam line at the outer edge of the pockets, again for stability. The stitching has disappeared into the fabric so don’t have a picture (stitch length 0.3 and width 2.5).

Understitching the facing wasn’t enough to keep it lying flat inside the coat so I stitched in the ditch on the shoulder seams for a couple of inches which really helped.

Papercut Sapporo in mohair

I added a hanging loop between the facing and lining (same process as Claire Coat) and anchored it by stitching a cross through all layers (this also helped to keep the facing in place).

I cut all the lining pieces as per the instructions and also cut two sleeve pieces (1″ longer than the sleeve length and omitting the turn up for the facing) which I sewed to the body pieces. I bagged then hand finished the lining- sewed the facing to lining then sleeve facings to sleeve lining, turned the whole thing the right way out and hand slip-stitched the hem into place.

Papercut Sapporo in mohair

There are extra squares of interfacing on the wrong side behind the snap fasteners. I used four and spaced them 6″ apart- one 6″ above the seamline between the coat front upper and lower sections, one on it and two below it.

Papercut Sapporo in mohair

In order to make the snaps as unobtrusive as possible I used the flat side for the visible half of the snaps and covered them in the mohair (which I steamed and pressed the heck out of first to flatten as much as possible). The inside snaps are covered in the lining fabric. The closures are there when needed but distract as little as possible from the overall look of the coat when worn open. It’s not designed to fasten because of the style lines on the front but needs must for the Scottish climate! The snaps have the added benefit of anchoring the facing really securely.

It’s a really light and warm coat. All the changes and additions I made make the coat work for me in the Scottish winter and all the extra internal structure should make it last for lots of them.

Papercut Sapporo in mohair

19 thoughts

  1. I love your coat! Like you, I want a closure for this coat and have wondered how to make it happen. Thanks so much for sharing it! I have one further question about the process. Aside from interfacing behind the snaps, did you have to alter to front pattern pieces at all to allow for the snaps? Thanks!

    Like

    • Hi Susan, thank you! No, I didn’t change the front pieces at all. There is a slight mis-match in the front style lines when the coat us fastened but I’m ok with that. The snappers are working really well for me- the coat has already had a lot of wear. Happy sewing! 🙂

      Like

  2. Your pics of the finished coat and info on interfacing it to give it some structure have inspired me to have a go. Thank you! And I love the print (?) behind you in one of your images.

    Like

    • Hi Ali, yaaay that’s great- it’s such a fab pattern. The print is by an artist friend of mine called Diana Leslie. I love her work. This one is based on part of Hogarth’s Rake’s Progress. Happy Sapporo sewing! 🙂

      Like

  3. I can’t thank you enough for this post! I have the Sapporo pattern sitting on my cutting table. It’s in my sewing goals for 2018. The length of the sleeves has been bothering me (I’m in Canada – we share similar weather!) and closures too 🙂 An open coat with shortie sleeves would just not work for me either but I loved the shape of this coat so I thought I would buy the pattern and figure out what to do about these later (probably like you!) however you have saved me weeks of head scratching 🙂 I feel ready to now tackle this project following your guidance all the way through!

    Like

    • Hi Kathleen, thank you for such a very lovely comment! So pleased I’ve saved you some head scratching. I did quite a lot of that so if you can benefit from it I’m delighted. Really hope your Sapporo works out brilliantly 😊

      Like

  4. Your coat is so lovely, the fabric is beautiful and a perfect match for this pattern. I also really like the changes you made to the sleeves, I would not want short sleeves, nor all of that bulk in a coat sleeve. It looks so much more balanced with your sleeves, great job. I am saving your write up in case I give this pattern a whirl.

    Like

    • Goodness, what a lovely comment- thank you so much! It’s such a fab pattern and the changes I made were pretty straightforward. I have worn this coat constantly since I made it. I hope you give it a go 🙂

      Like

  5. So beautiful and well executed! Thank you for the detailed explanation about the interacting and modifications. These were changes that I also was thinking about and your post helped so much!

    Like

  6. Hi Alison! Thank you for your detailed and informative write up about your Sapporo! It turned out really lovely. I am going to do the Sapporo as my first coat and was wondering did you narrow the sleeve lining piece by 3″ like you did the sleeve piece and did you bag the lining like the Clare coat tutorial? I wasn’t quite sure but I saw you said you still did some hand stitching.

    Like

    • Hi Megan, I’m pleased you found it helpful, thank you. Yes, I did narrow and lengthen the sleeve lining too so that where I sewed the bottom of the sleeve and lining together both pieces were the same length. TBH I did add a wee bit of extra length to the sleeve lining piece to make sure I had enough fabric for them to join easily- it’s easily trimmed away if there’s too much. I like to give myself wiggle room when I make changes to patterns like this.
      When I bag a lining I usually only sew from near the bottom on one side (depending on how deep the hem is on the coat) up and round the neck and down to near the bottom on the other side. I don’t sew any of the coat hem by machine; I prefer to do that very last bit by hand because I like the control I have over how it lies and it makes it really easy to open up if I ever need to go back in and make any adjustments or repairs. I hope that helps a bit but if it isn’t clear enough just leave me another comment and I’ll try again. Good luck with your Sapporo, I’m just finishing off a blog post for my third one which I’ve made in Harris Tweed. 🙂

      Like

      • Hi Alison, thank you for your response! You next Sapporo in Harris Tweed sounds gorg! I don’t know if it would be too difficult but could you take a few pics of how you sewed the sleeve lining? I’ll try to be clearer with my questions 🙂 I tend to understand things better visually.

        1. Did you add SA to the top of the sleeve lining piece so you could attach it to the rest of the lining pieces?
        2. You say you bagged then hand-finished the lining-sewing the facing to lining then sleeve facings to sleeve lining, then turned it the right way out. I thought bagging meant sewing along the front pieces and collar then turning the jacket right side out?
        3. You bagged through the side seam like the pattern called for then turned up the sleeve facing and slip stitched that to the sleeve lining?
        4. Would it also be possible to follow the Clare coat way of bagging where you make the sleeve and sleeve lining hold hands almost then flip it all out? Of course, making the sleeve lining piece longer so it could be folded over.

        Sorry for all the questions just trying to picture it all.

        Like

      • Ok, try this…
        You can see a pic of how the sleeve and lining and cuff pieces look when finished in the ‘inside out’ picture of the coat on the dress form in the blog post.
        1. I added seam allowance at the cuff end of new sleeve lining piece but not at the shoulder end because it is already included in the existing pattern piece.
        2. On most coats the facing pieces are separate but not on the Sapporo (Clare Coat sewalong has pics of the pieces as separate). Facings are built into front pieces on Saporro so it does look a bit different but same process, as you say…sew lining to coat outer around front edges and collar facing by sewing the built in facing to the lining.
        3. With the machine I sew the facing to lining and sew the sleeves to the sleeve linings by making them ‘hold hands”. The bit I don’t do by machine is the coat hem. I do all of that by hand.
        4. Yes, absolutely- that’s always how I do it.
        Questions are always good 🙂

        Like

  7. Hi Alison,
    Ah! I think I’m getting it! So like the pics in the Clare Coat Sewalong ( https://closetcasepatterns.com/clare-sewalong-bagging-a-coat-lining/ ) you unfold the sleeve facing and then turn the sleeve lining piece up 1″ and stitch them together holding hands? I’m def doing all this to some less expensive linen before my rainbow plaid wool haha! Thank you so much for all your help!

    Also, I spent several summers visiting family in England and Scotland with my Dad. I love it there and always can’t wait to go back.<3

    Like

    • Yes, exactly like that! It’s a bit of a mind bender till you’ve done it a couple of times but it is a great technique and practice always helps. I’m always happy to help if I can so just let me know if there’s anything else I can do. Very good luck with your Sapporo! I am biased but yes there are some lovely places (particularly Scotland obviously :-D). Happy sewing! 🙂

      Like

      • Hi Alison, happy new year! I’m getting the coat and coat lining together now. I was wondering if you attached the lining sleeve to the rest of the coat lining so you had a complete jacket and shell of lining like in the Clare coat tutorial?

        Sent from my iPhone

        >

        Like

      • Happy new year to you too! Yes, that’s right, sew all the lining pieces together then attach the whole thing to the coat outer, just like the Clare Coat sewalong. 🙂

        Like

  8. Thank you so much! I started garment sewing in May after a 10 year hiatus. I admire your makes and hope to get to your level one day. You’re very sweet to offer that, I won’t hesitate to comment if a question comes up while making. Happy new year and happy sewing! 🙂

    Like

Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out /  Change )

Google+ photo

You are commenting using your Google+ account. Log Out /  Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out /  Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out /  Change )

Connecting to %s