This is my second Named pattern. This time I bought the pdf version after discovering, when making my Inari Tee Dress, that their printed patterns didn’t include seam allowances but the pdfs did for some reason. I think this has changed now though and seam allowances are included in both versions of all the new patterns.
I had a gap in my wardrobe for a neutral, easy to wear and wash, warm jumper- enter the Talvikki Sweater. The pattern calls for medium to heavy weight jersey (approx 280- 380 gsm) with 30% stretch.
Here are the details….
The fabric is a really soft, brushed back, heathered grey sweatshirt bought from the very helpful Guthrie and Ghani.
I’m not sure what the exact weight is but I would guess it’s somewhere in the upper 300gsm area. It’s a really good weight for this pattern to give structure to the funnel neck.
This is made up in a straight size 36/38 as per my bust measurements and the sizing and fit is great, nice and roomy with space for layers underneath.
The stretch % was borderline at 20-25% when I tested it so I added 3/8″ extra seam allowance to the neck and shoulder seam (and on the facing) due to my paranoia that it wouldn’t go over my head.
I basted the neck and shoulders together to try on before I did anything else- didn’t need it but better safe than sorry.
I used a couple of strips of woven selvedge, instead of clear elastic, to stabilise the shoulder seams. I sew them on just inside the stitching line before I join the shoulder seams- it’s just one less thing to think about when I’m overlocking.
I didn’t bother interfacing the neck facing. This fabric has enough structure and was fine without it. If I was to interface it I would choose a very stretchy interfacing
Everything bar the hems was done on the overlocker using a short stitch length.
I used a slightly longer than usual straight stitch to hem the sleeves and bottom edge- 2.8mm and added bartacks at the top of the vents on each side (zig zag length 0.5 and width 2.0) for good measure. No need for a stretch stitch here- there’s lots of space to get it on and off so no danger of popped stitches.
This went together in one evening and is constructed exactly as the pattern describes- easy and quick! The funnel neck, darts and side vents are great details.
The only thing I might do differently for the next one would be a small forward shoulder adjustment. It isn’t an essential change by any means but one I always find helpful for me. I like the wider sleeves since I use this as a warm over-layer but it would be easy to narrow them/add cuffs if that was more the look you wanted.
I love it- it fills the wardrobe gap perfectly…and isn’t too ‘sweatshirty’. It has already had a lot of wear.