Merchant and Mills rayon Curlew vest

Merchant and Mills rayon Curlew vest

The Merchant and Mills Workbook is a beautiful book. The layout and way it’s put together have the usual high-quality Merchant and Mills look- what’s not to love. The pattern pieces are spread over multiple sheets so it takes a bit of work to trace the pattern off.

Merchant and Mills rayon Curlew vestMerchant and Mills rayon Curlew vest

 

First pattern up is the Curlew which can be made as a vest, long-sleeve top or dress

Merchant and Mills rayon Curlew vest

I used some lovely, map-print, chiffon-weight rayon bought in the Glasgow Mandors to make the vest (I have a couple of metres of the blue version for another project in the stash).

Merchant and Mills rayon Curlew vest

All versions of the Curlew are cut on the bias and lined to finish off the edges. I added a bit of length to the front and back of the vest as I cut it out- 2″ front and 3.75″ at the back because that’s what I could fit on the fabric and used the French curve to tidy up the curve between the front and back pieces. Then it just needed a spray of starch before starting to sew.

Merchant and Mills rayon Curlew vestMerchant and Mills rayon Curlew vest

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I stay-taped the shoulders with ribbon then made stay-tape with fusible knit interfacing using this fab tutorial. I hadn’t used this trick before but it worked brilliantly to stabilise the neck and armscyes without stay-stitching.

Merchant and Mills rayon Curlew vest

I’d read a couple of people had ended up with pointy darts when making this pattern so I used a one-thread dart (tutorial here). The set-up instructions sound really odd but it worked perfectly- no pointy darts.

Merchant and Mills rayon Curlew vest

I didn’t line the vest but finished all the edges with me-made white rayon bias binding, hand-stitched on the inside.

Merchant and Mills rayon Curlew vestMerchant and Mills rayon Curlew vest

 

The instructions are  really good, just enough without too much detail, and the bias-cut is genius- it skims but doesn’t cling which makes it really flattering. More patterns will definitely be made from this book.

Merchant and Mills rayon Curlew vestMerchant and Mills rayon Curlew vest

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