I Am Patterns woven Artemis blazer

I Am Patterns woven Artemis blazer

The Artemis is my fifth pattern from the French indie company I Am Patterns. I’ve also completed two versions of their Pan top in Italian broderie anglaise and another in chiffon weight rayon, a Cherie-Cherie tee in a heavy striped cotton jersey and much loved and worn Apollon sweatshirt dress.

The outer fabric is a 2m length of loose weave, viscose / rayon tweed style coating bought several years ago in the Glasgow Mandors’ sale. It has a really soft drape and great sheen. The lining is a very lovely tropical print cotton lawn.

Size choice

I would be a 40 according to the size chart but based on comparing the pattern to an existing blazer, reading others’ blogs and previous experience with their patterns I sized down to a 38. I made an unlined toile to check the fit- all good.

SIZES (inches) 36 38 40 42 44 46
BUST 32 1/4 33 7/8 35 1/2 37 38 1/2 40 1/8
WAIST 24 1/2 26 27 1/2 29 1/8 30 3/4 32 1/4
HIP 34 5/8 36 1/4 37 3/4 39 3/8 40 7/8 42 1/2

 

The how…

Outer – Artemis is a bit of a fabric beast because of the kimono sleeve construction. There is no really efficient way to cut this one out! The full set of pattern pieces helped and although the pattern says it needs 3 yards I only had 2m and that worked out just fine. The loose weave of this fabric was another challenge- lesson learned, I should have added extra seam allowance on top of the included 3/8″. I also used fusible weft insertion interfacing on all the outer pieces (cut with the outer fabric) which really helped to stabilise the loose weave.

I Am Patterns woven Artemis blazer

The only pattern change I made was to add a couple of extra inches of length to the sleeve pieces to function as a facing because I prefer the look of a facing over just a seam allowance at the end of the sleeve.

I Am Patterns woven Artemis blazer

The construction of the jacket outer is really straightforward as jackets go. I slightly wish I had cut the pockets from lining fabric instead of outer fabric because of the weight of the fabric plus interfacing but it’s not a major annoyance.

Lining – I cut less than the recommended 2 and 3/8″ off the front and back pieces to leave a bit of wiggle room for lining installation and left the pockets in (more pockets is always better in my book).

I Am Patterns woven Artemis blazer

Plus the obligatory (slightly chunky) hanging loop.

I Am Patterns woven Artemis blazer

Lining installation – I used a different method to install the lining. The pattern method means you’re left with visible seam allowances on the inside where the collar and jacket body are sewn together which I didn’t want. This is how I did it:

  1. Attached one edge of the collar to the neckline, right sides together and added a hanging loop at the centre back. I hand basted everything in place before sewing it on the machine so I knew the placement was right. I did use some Fray Check on the loose ends to make sure I didn’t have any strays that would pop out later because of the loose weave of the fabric.

I Am Patterns woven Artemis blazer

I Am Patterns woven Artemis blazer

2.Turned the other edge of the collar to the inside, tucked the seam allowance under and pinned the slip stitched it down for an invisible finish – no visible seam allowances.

I Am Patterns woven Artemis blazer

3. Pulled the sleeves out and bagged them (standard method for this). The pattern recommends slip stitching but I wanted to machine finish this to make it stand up to pulling the jacked on and off. The couple of extra inches gave a nice facing and enough extra fabric to more than double the seam allowance here. I then top stitched the facings down from the right side to hold everything in place.

I Am Patterns woven Artemis blazer

4. Then it was just a case of turning up the hem and tucking under the short ends next to the collar and slip stitching again for a clean finish all round. I used doubled silk thread and a really small slip stitch throughout which should give it a really strong, secure finish.

I Am Patterns woven Artemis blazer

5. I added a final rectangle of top stitching at the base of the collar over the ends of the hanging loop to make it really secure and that’s it.

It does still need buttons but I can’t decide what to put on it.

Verdict

  • I like the boxy shape, the length and generous pockets but prefer the styling on the Papercut Sapporo (my two Saporros … full length in woven mohair and shortened in a heavy wool knit for comparison)
  • It will be a good spring/summer jacket. The fabric means it’s smart enough for work or for wearing with jeans.
  • Anything else I make with a similar loose weave fabric needs MUCH bigger seam allowances.
  • This would work well and feel great in a heavy knit fabric, probably better than in a woven, because of the long kimono sleeves. The amount of fabric it uses is still a bit of an issue for me though, again I would choose Sapporo here. I made a blazer length Sapporo out of 1.5m with very little waste (and a small amount of piecing) vs Artemis at 2m and a lot of waste. You could remove the sleeves and cut them as separate pattern pieces which would help.
  • If I make it in a knit I’ll stick with the collar construction I used here rather than the one described in the pattern. I prefer concealed seam allowances around a collar on a jacket.

 

Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out /  Change )

Google+ photo

You are commenting using your Google+ account. Log Out /  Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out /  Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out /  Change )

Connecting to %s