It’s another Grainline pattern to add to the Scout Tee versions one, two and three, the Alder shirt dress versions one and two, a Talvikki/Linden mash-up in a gorgeous French Terry and Tiny Pocket Tanks one and two.
I did make a complete version of this in a bird print doublegauze (I think it was an Ellen Baker Kokka one) and a tiny bit of Nani Iro double gauze first. Both were bought from The Eternal Maker ages ago and were earmarked for pjs. So the very wearable toile will be a pj top.
It did allow me to pick up some areas where I wanted to adjust the fit, namely:
- Raise the shoulder seams a bit; and
- Narrow the sleeves at the cuff edge.
I cut a 6 graded to an 8 at the hips for the body. I did also use slightly smaller seam allowances from the waist to the hips when sewing up. I was really happy with the fit on the body.
The other thing I changed was the collar shape, basically I made it bigger based on a rtw shirt tunic that I own and love the collar shape of. You can see the difference between the original collar and my adapted one in the pic. I really like how the collar looks and sits so I used it on version 2 as well.
After version 1 I graded the sleeves in from a 6 to a 4 before cutting my fabric but reduced them more at fitting- see below.
The fabric for version two is a really unusual and very beautiful double-sided double gauze. Denim-coloured slub on one side and coordinating stripe on the other with the requisite double gauze cosy softness and drape…as well as the rapid fraying and disappearing notches.
When I phoned to order the fabric they only had 2m left. The pattern calls for 2.3 at 45″/115cm wide and this was slightly narrower. However, after version one I had made up a full set of pattern pieces and just played a bit of pattern Tetris. In the end I cut it out of 1.65m without any major issues (I would always order 1.7 for future makes of this).
The 2 sides allowed me to really play with the placement of the stripes throughout the shirt. In the end I decided to make the stripes visible on:
- All three plackets
- Inner and outer collar stand
- Outer yoke (inner one is in blue)
- Top of pocket
The indispensable tools in this project have been Pritt Stick and Wonder Tape. They got a LOT of use in securing areas without the need for pins or clips. They are great at keeping everything really flat and secure as you sew- nothing moves when you’re top or edgestitching which I find extremely useful. I used them at various points on the plackets, pocket, collar and cuffs (more pics and info on this in my Lottie blog post). One wash and they disappear. The adjustable blind hem foot is also a great one to have on hand for top and edgestitching in some areas.
I found I got a better finish on my plackets if I marked rather than snipped the notches where the plackets fold to a point.
I used the Alternate Archer pocket on this one to show off the stripes (with red topstitching) but only added one. I topstitched it using triple stitch (greater definition) and added red bartacks instead of triangles at the corners for reinforcement.
I made a couple of alterations as I went on this one:
- Once the yokes were attached I tried the shirt on to check the position of the shoulder seams. Looking at others’ pictures I know that they aren’t meant to sit right up on the shoulder but mine are quite narrow so I removed around half an inch from each side thengraded out to mid-armscye before setting the sleeves in.
- Before sewing the side and arm seams I decided to have one pleat (3/4″ in length) rather than two.
- I sewed the side seam as normal then changed to a basting stitch to sew the rest of the arm seam. I tried the shirt on and pinned out the excess sleeve width so that I knew it would fit easily over my very chunky watch, graded the new stitching line up to a couple of inches below the armscye seam and stitched permanently. I ended up taking out an inch and a half at the end of each sleeve- see pic below. The bottom edge of the sleeve finished up a bit narrower than it originally was in the size 4 which didn’t cause any issues with fitting the cuffs- there was just a slightly larger seam allowance to trim at each end.
It did make a big difference…
I’ve folded this out of my pattern pieces for future reference. It hasn’t been cut off so I have the option to make a fuller sleeve-would be nice on something like silk or rayon.
I overlocked all the internal seams and the bottom edge before hemming. Double gauze frays like mad and this tidied it up so no threads peeped out during hemming- it also makes for an easy and accurate way to turn the hem up. I used triple stitch to finish the hem for a slightly heavier stitching line.