Closet Case is one of my very favourite pattern companies- the combination of style and fabulous pattern drafting is a winner for me… see my Kalle shirt, embroidered Kalle dress, navy pinstripe Kalle, silk Kalle one and two, houndstooth Clare Coat, Carolyn pj bottoms in a knit and a pair in flamingo cotton. I also have 2 pairs of Ginger jeans which I’ve never got round to blogging because so many others have done it so well.
First up- the tee version with standard sleeves. I made this as a wearable toile to check fit before I cut the dress out. The fabulous checked jersey is from Girl Charlee UK and it was lovely to work with. Here’s the how and what:
I cut a straight size 8 (full bust 35″) and the fit is great. The tee is cropped so I added 3″ at the lengthen shorten line rather than extending the bottom because I didn’t want to add any more fullness. I like the finished length a lot and may even add another inch for the next one.
When using checks it is obligatory to play with them so I cut the sleeve pattern piece at the lengthen shorten line and cut the bottom section on the bias and the neckband too. I sewed the sleeve pieces together at the start.
Using a long stitch on my sewing machine I did baste the neckband on before overlocking which was in the pattern instructions. Great tip! I’ll be doing that with all knit neckbands from now on. I also basted the side seams and arms before overlocking to make sure the underarm and bias sleeve seams match up. I will add a bit to the width of the sleeves I think to give a bit more ease in them.
Overlocking the bottom edge followed by a good steam with the iron gave a nice clean edge to hem. I wanted as small a hem as possible to keep the length so hand basted it before sewing to make sure everything was caught accurately first time round.
Love this as a tee!
Next on the cutting table is the dress version with raglan sleeves. This is made in 2m of very soft, double-sided, quilted jersey from Guthrie & Ghani.
The Closet Case blog post explains how to blend between different views of the pattern. I wanted to use the stripey side for long raglan sleeves on the dress and I added about 3/8″ to the width of the sleeves. I also added 2″ to the length and the lengthen/shorten line.
I just laid the shorter raglan sleeve piece on top of the full sleeve piece to save tracing off a full length raglan version.
The neckband is cut on the cross grain to get the stripes to run horizontally. There was less stretch so the original neckband length was too short. I added 1.25″ and, after a good steam, it lies pretty well.
This fabric has a lot more structure than the tee so when it came to sewing up the side seams I basted at 3/8″ then overlocked at 5/8″ , tried it on again and then removed a further 6/8″ to get the dress to fit and lie how I wanted. This is just because of the drape of this particular fabric. The extra 3/8″ on the sleeves was perfect, I really like the fit of them on this version.
The 2″ I added wasn’t needed and I ended up removing 3″ from the length before hemming. I used triple stitch for the dress hem and lightning stitch on the sleeves (twin needle just wasn’t happening today).
I also love this as a dress. Pattern staple found! I love the easy to wear, elegant, swooshiness of it and how different it looks depending on the fabric you choose…and it only has five pieces!!!