bias-cut Grainline Scout Tee

bias-cut Grainline Scout Tee

This is now Scout Tee number three. I love that it has ended up completely different to number one and number two yet they all start from the same pattern. It’s so easy to do with Grainline patterns… see also Alder shirt dress one and two …and a Talvikki/Linden mash-up in a gorgeous French Terry and an Archer popover variation in double gauze.

This one is made from Kokka Echino fabric bought on a shopping trip to the amazing multi-floor fabric store Tomato in Nippori Fabric Town,Tokyo. I think it is technically a home furnishings fabric but I love the print and colourway so bought a couple of metres to add to my stash. I have taken it out and admired it many times since but couldn’t quite figure out what to do with it…till now. The Scout Tee is such a simple pattern that it works really well for big prints- perfect!

bias-cut Grainline Scout Tee

The fabric is probably medium to heavyish and I wasn’t sure how well it would drape so I decided to cut the whole thing on the bias to make the most of it’s drapey potential. Although the print is big it is non-directional (I still somehow managed to cut the back piece with two upside down birds on it-oops).

bias-cut Grainline Scout Tee

I did allow a bit of extra seam allowance just in case the fabric stretched out a bit but because it’s such a stable fabric I didn’t end up needing it. The only  real difference during construction was in stretching out the seams slightly as I sewed them.

bias-cut Grainline Scout Teebias-cut Grainline Scout Tee

No changes made to the pattern pieces, other than the removal of neck gape which I did in version one. Once I’d put the shell together and tried it on I decided to line it too. I used red cupro and again cut everything on the bias- after a hefty spray of starch which made life a LOT easier.

bias-cut Grainline Scout Tee

I basted the lining and shell fabric together before adding bias binding which I made out of royal blue, linen-look cotton.

bias-cut Grainline Scout Teebias-cut Grainline Scout Tee

Then I sewed it over the shell and lining together at the neck and armholes for a nice tidy finish. I ended up hand finishing all the binding because I like the invisible finish and because there was such a big colour difference between the main fabric and binding that I didn’t want to risk any stray stitching that would be visible on the outside.

bias-cut Grainline Scout Tee

The last job was to shorten the lining slightly and hand sew the hem, just in case it stretches out at any point it would be easy to unpick and redo. (fairly likely with the cupro I think).

I still have lots of this fabric left…thinking a nice big tote bag maybe…one of those clever origami, foldy style onesbias-cut Grainline Scout Tee


2 thoughts

  1. Hi what a great idea to cut this on the bias to counter the non-drapiness of the fabric! I love my drapey scouts but my non-drapey versions have been fails due to this problem. I will try the bias approach now! How did this top wear over time? Did it stretch out much? I just read that bias cut garments should be stored folded. I had never thought of that before but I guess it makes sense. GORGEOUS print by the way!


    • Hi Kat, apologies for the delayed reply. I didn’t find this top stretched out and I did keep it on a hanger. I did have to rehem the lining after a couple of weeks of wear because it did droop a bit but then I didn’t leave it to hang before I hemmed it (too impatient to finish it at the time) which I did with the outer fabric.


Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in: Logo

You are commenting using your account. Log Out /  Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out /  Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out /  Change )

Connecting to %s